Frequently Asked Questions - All FAQs

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In the first instance, please contact us here. Once the troubleshooting procedure has been completed (over 75% of issues are fixed this way) and the pedal needs to come back to us, you will need to complete the returns authority form (with the RA number provided by us) and include it in the package. Details of where to send it to you will be provided with the RA number.

It's much easier to contact us here than it is to ask people on social media what to do! 



5 year warranty includes parts and labor and return shipping back to you. You are responsible to ship it to us. If we open it up and find repairs are needed because of misuse, abuse (accidental or not) or neglect than we cannot cover the repairs for free.




If the pedal was purchased direct from us:

  • You have 14 days from the day you receive your pedal to decide if you like it or not. If you return it, it must contain all shipping and packing material and be in new condition.

If you purchased the pedal from a dealer:

  • Refer to the dealers returns policy.




Has anything else changed? Are you using a power supply or battery? Many noise problems are due to a battery going low, or inferior power supply. Have you tried it by itself in the chain? When finding problems it’s best to isolate the assumed source. Have you tried it with different cables? Are you using the gain channel of your amp or clean channel? Most higher gain pedals sound best into the clean channel of an amp.




It sounds like what you are experiencing is sag. You might already know that overdrive, distortion and fuzz are created by compression/limiting and clipping. The harder you drive (for example) the Sovereign or Pinnacle (which are mu-amp type circuits) circuit, the more compressed the signal can get and this can occasionally cause sag; especially with higher output pickups. The higher the output of the pickup, the harder you drive the circuit. This can often be alleviated by simply lowering your pickups! Plus, when you do that you’ll notice that all of your pedals will actually feel like they respond better. Our higher gain pedals are going to be more susceptible to this as they are designed to compress/react like a tube amp.




Yes, upon first use the boost needs to “charge” (for the want of a better phrase), once it is first used it will be instantaneous. We always hit the boost before playing when we plug ours in to make sure it is ready!




Yes. You are probably (99.9% chance of) hearing the internal buffer as it is turned on. Your signal isn’t getting brighter, just being restored before all the tone is being sucked out of it by cable lengths etc. If you are noticing this, you might want to think about buffering the signal to ensure it remains intact.




This is a question that we get asked all the time, it’s really hard to describe the differences in writing so it’s probably better you have a listen to the demo video below. It’s an older video, but it shows them all perfectly!




Usually this question comes up from novice guitar players (No offense, just being honest). If I play as usual and then play the same thing left handed, I will sound different. ALOT of tone is in the hands and how you use the equipment. Also, if you are using a 10 watt solid state amp and my soundclip is using a fender twin then it’s pretty fair to say you aren’t going to get the same tones...



A buffer changes your signal from hi to lo impedance, once this is done it will not deteriorate. Hi impedance signal deteriorates quickly and there is a noticeable amount of “top end” missing, you probably don’t even notice it happening but it happens and once you hear it, you are painfully aware of it. The longer your lead, the more connectors you have between pedals (especially true bypass pedals) the worse it will be. If you are experience this, the dB+ buffer/boost is exactly what you need - you can purchase it here!


This isn’t a firm rule, but it is only my personal opinion on what sounds best. guitar – buffer – compressor – tuner – wah – phaser – distortion – overdrive – eq – clean boost (if used for a solo volume boost) – chorus/flanger/phaser (if deeper phase is needed) – delay – reverb – buffer – clean boost (if used for pushing the amp into further overdrive) – amp.




No – you would want to put the following effects in the effect loop of your amp: eq – clean boost (if used for a solo volume boost) – chorus/flanger/phaser (if deeper phase is needed) – delay – reverb – clean boost (if used for pushing the amp into further overdrive).





Put the volume pedal *before* any overdrive or distortion to control the amount of gain. If you want to control the actual volume, put it *after* any overdrive or distortion and before the delay or in the effects loop right before the delay.




It’s really hard to nail it to an exact figure, but we are working on a literal 18db of clean boost.




There are no sound differences, just that the switch is replaced with a stomp!




It controls the volume of the last gain stage. We usually set it to be a unity gain stage, and turning it up does indeed create more volume but can also change the EQ curve a little.



No, many of the trimpots are for biasing purposes, and turning them will make the pedal not function properly


We advise you use a good quality power supply for your pedals. Each pedal was designed to run at 9v DC and will perform as designed when being run that way.

Some pedals can be run at 18v and that will increase the clean headroom and make the gain sweep more noticeable or just make it louder. Those marked with a tick can be used up to 18v, those marked with a cross cannot - please do not attempt it with any marked with a cross as warranty does not cover when the incorrect power is applied.

Please ensure that you are running a negative center pin.

  • Paisley Drive – 12mA  (15mA at 18v)
  • Hot Wired v2 – 25mA  (28mA at 18v)
  • Dual Fusion – 24mA  (27mA at 18v)
  • Plexi-Drive Deluxe - 26mA  (27mA at 18v) 
  • Plexi-Drive – 7mA  (8mA at 18v)
  • Tweed’57 – 7mA  (9mA at 18v) 
  • Thirty Something – 17mA  (23mA at 18v)
  • Clarksdale - 18mA  (20mA at 18v)
  • Pinnacle – 7mA  (8mA at 18v) 
  • Pinnacle Deluxe v2 – 26mA  (27mA at 18v) 
  • cataPulp - 24mA  (26mA at 18v)
  • Triple Wreck – 23mA 
  • Euphoria – 12mA  (14mA at 18v) 
  • Tumnus - 21mA  
  • Sovereign – 12mA  (13mA at 18v)
  • Velvet Fuzz – 27mA 
  • Faux Tape Echo v2 – 42mA  (55mA at 18v)
  • Ego Compressor – 11mA  (12mA at 18v)
  • Mini Ego Compressor – 5mA  (7mA at 18v)
  • Latitude Deluxe – 42mA  (44mA at 18v)
  • Latitude Standard - 34mA  (36mA at 18v)
  • dB+ – 6mA  (8mA at 18v)
  • Plextortion – 12mA 
  • Faux Tape Echo (tap) – 40mA 
  • Pinnacle Deluxe v1 – 9mA 
  • Black’65 – 3mA 
  • Decibel+ – 6mA 
  • SLOstortion – 15mA 
  • Faux Analog Echo – 29mA 
  • Faux Spring Reverb – 78mA 
  • Cranked OD – 17mA 
  • Hot Wired v1- 10mA 
  • Faux Tape Echo – 33mA 
  • Clean Buffer – 9mA 
  • Super Plex – 8mA 
  • Underdog – 14mA 
  • Cranked AC – 3mA 
  • Nirvana Chorus – 13mA 
  • Leviathan Fuzz – 12mA 

For further information, please refer to this blog item that covers the subject in depth.